The Eastern & Oriental Express is now checked off my ‘bucket list’ Been there, done that and what a great experience

By Barbara Kingstone

Bangkok was the departure city for my longed for dream voyage on the Eastern and Oriental Train. Bangkok is always steamy, hot and smoggy but there are air con cabs or the alternative, take one of the colorful tuk tuks,( a covered bike with muscular leg power) There’s no question that  the new Skytrain has made a noticeable difference in easing  traffic. But in a city of 10 million people, I couldn’t wait to return to the  luxurious oasis, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, for a few days before getting on board the renowned train.

Sightseeing wasn’t  a priority on my ‘bucket list’.  My lengthy double digit hour flight  was about being one of the lucky 108 passengers on the over sold, maiden Eastern & Oriental Train voyage to Laos. They even added two cars to accommodate the requests. Uber luxury on narrow tracks, (1 metre wide) known for outstanding service and much so more  on the  itinerary was an amazing experience.

No sooner had I left the limo at  Bangkok’s Hualampong Station, than  my  luggage was whisked away not to be seen until I entered my cabin, N2. Getting to the station’s lounge was a curious affair as I passed a row of barbers, one next to the other,  cropping and cutting men’s hair -stool, apron, clippers, gel and brush. It was business as usual for the Thais.

This being a first of the soon to be regular luxury voyage between Singapore, Bangkok (where I hopped the train) to Laos proved extremely popular especially for the railway buffs who had been on various Orient Express trips.

Giggling Laotian school girls and me

The welcoming crowd in Laos

After handing over my passport to the receptionist, I soon learned that all formalities like visas needed for other countries ( in this case Laos) are handled by the company . Already this trip seemed like a no- brainer, a hands off, fun and fancy free event.

The Eastern & Oriental Express was debuting its four day three night maiden journey.  Our trip took us through the northeastern region of Thailand via the Friendship Bridge on the Mekong River into  Vientiane, Laos’s capital city. I can now tick off another on my ‘bucket’ list. The skyline doesn’t resemble the Bangkok I recall. High office buildings and huge glass shopping malls seemed to have overtaken the city’s  outline.

I saw this as a Tale of Two Cities.  The distance between Bangkok and Vientiane is really just a few hours by car but the train’s itinerary included  interesting diversions. Firstly there was a palm reader in the Library who didn’t flinch when she pointed out my long life line and two parallel lines. “Ah, this one is for receiving money and the longer one is for money going out.”  Well, there was no denying it she could see right through me leaving me time to  rush to the small but well equipped on-board shop on my way to hear the renowned  author  William Warren. Warren was a friend and the definitive biographer of the late Jim Thompson,  one of the original Thai silk magnates who to this day, has puzzled sleuths with his still unsolved mysterious disappearance and demise.

What fun it was to listen along with a large group who gathered in the Observatory Bar , to  his charming, chatty, funny, informal talk about his life in Thailand.  The smooth talking American southerner still has that  charm and kept us captivated for over an hour.

The Pullman Cabin which became my ‘room’ for the next  three days and two nights of the train part of the trip was small but certainly  comfortable for a single person.  But at first glance, I couldn’t imagine where I was  to put all my toiletries and clothing. The compartment steward, available 24 hours a day, introduced me to the various hidden drawers and racks.  Soon  my clothing was hanging or folded and my toiletries with supporting barred racks.  A walk-in shower, basin, dressing gown, fluffy towels and toiletries were neatly convenient in the air conditioned cabin.  Everything had been well thought out to fit the necessities.  A reading light, window blinds perfectly fitted so that no light could get through  during the occasional night stops and then there was the clever day to night transformation when the smartly upholstered day sofa  was covered at night with a blinding white starched, smooth sheet and spanking clean coverlets.  And since there is no laundry or ironing on board, any creases were either not noticed or in the heat of the day, increased or disappeared.

The heavier luggage for those on a longer trip, was stored in another car and guests were to bring only the necessities and some smart evening wear, in soft sided bags.  Tradition continues on the Eastern & Oriental and this was a perfect example of learning to dress out of a small convenient bag.

Obviously, this was also an important tour for others since I counted over a dozen languages-  Russian, Polish, English, (is Gaelic considered a language?), Hebrew, French, German, Italian , Spanish) Czech, Japanese and Chinese, Pilipino and heavily accented Australian (is that considered English?).

Thanaleng

Temple in Vientiane

Since my accommodations were at the end of the train and the three restaurants, Malaya, Rosaline, and Saloon, were towards the centre really closer to the other end, I learned very quickly on these narrow bumpy tracks, to move quickly when the train slowed and run as like an Olympian when it stopped to fill up the water supply.  The rest of the time, I just bounced from side to side, clinging to the various hand rails for the first few hours until I found my train legs.  The only real difficult issue was the location of my cabin since out of the 22 cars, I figured I was in the 20th.  Silhouette heels are not suggested.

To accommodate everyone, each person had to decide which meal seating they would prefer. My choice, the earliest – 6.45 while the later was 9.30PM.  (Lunch started at 11.30 the later at 1.30).Then we were assigned one of the three different restaurant for each meal… Malaya, Rosaline and Saloon.  Each is decorated as one would expect, differently but all with exquisite wood inlay and craftsmanship not  seen any longer.  The stainless steel bodied carriages built in 1971, were brought in 1991 to the expert workshops in Singapore where the interiors were magically remodeled. The inspiration for the interior design came from the 1930’s movie classic, Shanghai Express, starring Marlene Dietrich.  The marquetry panels on the interior walls are made of elm, cherry, teak, and rosewood- all hand cut by local craftsmen. The compartments also paneled,  are in precious cherry wood and elm burr.  Intricate trimmings throughout  the train and the medallion in my cabin, as  I suspect were all others, was extraordinary. The use of color like the pale ash wood in the Bar Car and the darker Burmese teak floor in the Observation car are so reminiscent of other times.

Not only is the wood an attribute to this luxurious surrounding but so too are the fine china, crystal and flatware and meals that were photo perfectly served.  There was no death on this Orient Express, (How could one write about the train and not throw in that phrase?) only moans and groans of happiness.  My favorite dining car, the cozy Saloon, has a traditional Oriental feeling with its dark rosewood and deluxe  plush seat covering.  The varied items on each menu could please anyone.

Snacks on the train

After a somewhat bouncy  two nights and little sleep since I’m an embarrassingly light sleeper, the train on the narrow tracks, did pitch about but the positive side to this is, with a press of a button,  my valet brought my early breakfasts served on a silver tray with the best croissants this side of Paris. At that insanely early hour, I seemed to have the train to myself.  My exercise was running to the far end outdoor observation car where I wanted to feel the early morning cool and see the locals off to work or school and the landscape changes along the way.  And the extra waking hours gave me time to see the vista, the sun rise and explore the rest of the public areas before the other were awakened.

The itinerary included an excursion to Hin Dat and a World Heritage Site, the 11th century Phimai (Pimai) Historical Park, one of the most important Khmer ruins and monuments in Thailand. It has been said Prasat Hin Phimai may have influenced the design of the later Angkor Wat in Cambodia.  School children surrounded me to see my clothing, shyly talk some English and asked for someone to take a photo of all of us, insisting that I be included.  Giggling teenagers seems to be international.

Our next stop was to be to a vineyard but with the addition of the extra cars, the engine grunted, jerked and finally gave out and a more powerful locomotive was attached a few hours later.  As the sun set the group was divided into two. One bus went to Khao Yai  vineyard while my group’s  wine tasting was at the family owned Granmonte Estate.

Certainly the big day was when we crossed the bridge over the Mekong River into Laos with the  many fluttering flags.  It seems so outdated but this is still a Communist country and next to their nation’s flag, there’s the sickle and hammer banner.

Welcoming signs were every few feet on the bridges and when we came to a stop, awaiting us  were dozens of  dignitaries from both countries and of course,all on the waiting buses to take us for a city tour of Vientiane, the capital city.  It was a bit of history which I wouldn’t have wanted to miss.

Another great historic temple on the itinerary

My valet

For more information contact Barbara3@rogers.com.