Nu-Way Diner, Borger, Texas

By Heidi Kingstone

I never did think of getting my kicks on Route 66, the great historic American highway, the 2000 miles of 1960s rite of passage that stretches from Chicago to LA. Recently though I found myself cruising through six states heading toward Texas. My first reaction to small town USA is hyperventilation followed by the instant desire to be physically transported just about anywhere else in the universe. Deepest darkest America is an alien adventure.

My trip took me to Borger, and to a lucky stumble across the Nu-Way Diner which offers Texas homestyle cooking at its very very best. The bliss of this is two-fold. First is that fact that there is light at the end of the frighteningly bland American mass-market unhealthy food tunnel. There is something real to eat in the American aftershock of plastic food served at the eponymous chains like Wendy’s, Denny’s, and McDonald’s.

Then there is the thundering reality at just how awesome the food actually is. I maxed out the calories on one of the diner’s famous specialities – chicken and dressing – translated as corn stuffing – sheer total food nirvana.

Perhaps some see it as a contradiction in terms to say that American filter coffee can actually taste good – but a delicious good simple brew is what they offer – equal to the best ever latte I have had in Italy – if admittedly different – sacrilege I admit but true all the same – please don’t shoot me.

I felt like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz. I had discovered this whole new world and was, like her, nearby in Kansas, over the rainbow.
As I sat there stunned and drooling my cup was refilled, the homemade coconut pie (pies are another speciality) brought over to the table, the corn muffin wrapped up to take away, the owner came and sat down to chat.

As it says on the Nu-Way Diner mug (2008) that he gave me after our conversation, ‘if only this building could talk’. It goes on the say that it is the oldest continuously working restaurant in the same location since 1943.

I found myself wanting to move in, to stay at my regular place (I went back for breakfast the next day), settling in for some exceptionally welcoming service, friendly gossip, heaps of local colour, great atmosphere, classic décor, and a place full of regulars, – and a smoking section at the front of the restaurant.

Borger itself, like many towns scattered across the southwest, is derelict and desolate without any charm or anything seemingly to recommend it except to drive straight on by. Although I only saw one tumbleweed on my epic journey had it blown through these streets it would not have been out of place in this lonely town.

The Nu-Way, much to my horror, was closed for dinner that night so I asked if I could have the dressing recipe. Unlikely. It’s a well-guarded family secret. I have already suggested that there should be a Nu-Way Diner cookbook and I am offering myself as the Nigella Lawson of the southwest.

Although that was far and away the highlight, the Lone Star nearby had fabulous margaritas, and if you happen to cruise along to Grants New Mexico, try the incredible guacamole at La Cafecita, check out Ross C. Marquez’s Boot & Saddle Shop, and snap up the great (vegetarian) tamales at the Acoma Pueblo at Sky City.

Nu-Way Diner 207 S Main Street Borger Texas