Laos and Cambodia – How to do it up right and on your own

By Nina Wright

An Iconic adventure for the Independent Traveler

If you want to create your own international vacation to an exotic destination and still have the advantage of an itinerary that is both imaginative, up to date, and superbly organized we found a way to do it and also to avoid the limitations of a group tour with a pre-determined itinerary, little flexibility and a lot of coach togetherness.

Firstly, we decided on the vacation area, read many pertinent magazine articles and bought several guide books. After plotting our trip itinerary we then called three boutique travel agents, giving each the same information. Two of them said “perfect” and we can make all the reservations for you. The third, said “good but not perfect and here is what you should change to make it right”. We chose them!

With the travel agent, we fine-tuned what to see, where to stay, and how much time to allot to each area –things to see, places to stay and best of breed restaurants.

We left in early November when the weather in both Laos and Cambodia is relatively predictable, with daytime temperatures in the upper-70′s and night temperatures a balmy 60 degrees.

At each airport we were met by a pre arranged local guide and driver and despite our well thought out plans, made several last minute changes each day, depending on our mood at the time. That was totally accepted and always met with a smile and easy adaptation. (This is possibly one of the greatest advantages of going independently).

Our plan was to start in Luang Prabang (Laos) a short plane ride from Bangkok. With only 30,000 people, Luang is a world heritage site where one can quietly explore the UNESCO restored city’s French colonial houses and 33 gold-topped temples, or wats as they are called. In spite of its painful past, this city exudes a peace and tranquillity that makes it the perfect place to enter Indochina . Brightly dressed monks in their orange attire are ever present and the early morning ( 5:45 ) daily procession through the centre of town is a sight to behold. Long chains of robed monks ranging in age from 10 years old to well over 70, come from all directions, each carrying his own alms bowl. As they pass before you, you place a small portion of sticky rice (provided in advance by the guide) into each bowl. The town looks after its own and as a visitor you are encouraged to participate. It’s a tender and gentle offering and you are immediately in the meditative space that Luang Prabang provides.

Beyond the temples there are the beautiful Kwangsi waterfalls, the Pak Ou caves, Ock Pop Tok (silk textile weaving and design workshop), the Mahout Elephant Training Camp, and many tiny cafes and textile shops.

We stayed at La Residence Phou Vao, an Orient-Express hotel situated on a hilltop across the valley from Mount Phou Si. On entering the reception area, one is struck with the profusion and design of the floral arrangements. Our room, with its rosewood floors, terrazzo tile and marble bathroom and wide balcony sits above the infinity swimming pool, which is lit and strewn with frangipani blossoms each night. In the evening, hundreds of candles light the terrace and pool and a light and delicious dinner.

After five days we left for Cambodia , well acclimated to the spirit of the Indochina .

In trying to decide which other major stop to make, other than our entry point ( Bangkok ) and our departure point ( Hong Kong ), we chose Siem Reap, the major Cambodian town accessing Angkor Wat, which is one of the great architectural wonders of the world. A sixty square mile complex of over one hundred temples, Angkor was constructed in the jungle during the on-going Buddhist and Hindu conflicts between 802-1431a.d.

It requires a minimum of 4-5 days to experience this incredible historical feast. And while everyone has their favorite temple sites,we particularly enjoyed Ta Prohm, built in the 12th century by Jayavarman, where the jungle still has its formidable grip on the impressive temple facades and the beautiful 10th century Banteay Srei, the Citadel of Women.

Be sure to catch a sunrise or sunset from one of the prime spots in the main Angkor Wat temple and you will never forget it. Here is the place where a knowledgeable guide makes all the difference.

At Amansara, where we stayed, we were provided with our own English-speaking guide, aptly named Yokohama because of his fluency in Japanese and our own driver, who every day found all the little used entrances to each temple and gave us a daily timing schedule to ensure we viewed each temple at the ideal time of day and without crowds.

A typical day started at 5:30am where tea/coffee/juices and pastries were brought to our room. We met our guide at 6:00 for a morning excursion made in the cool of the day. By 9:30 or 10:00 we were back at Amansara and had a full and delicious breakfast of anything and everything you could possibly desire. The papayas, mangos, melons, and a whole array of other tropical fruits were ours all day long as well as cheeses, breads and pastries.

Between breakfast and mid-afternoon we swam in our own private pool, read, had massages in Amansara’s first rate spa, made local visits to the thriving town of Siem and generally relaxed until 3:30 when we departed for a second temple viewing. The timing reminded me of Africa which is experienced along much of the same time line. Travel and explore in early morning and late afternoon – away from the heat of the day and the large group tours.

Apart from the friendliness of the native Khmers, experiencing Angkor Wat, the Aman way is virtually unique. The name Amansara comes from the joining of two Sanskrit words-aman or peace and apsara – the heavenly nymphs of ancient Hindu texts. It is a totally tranquil base from which to view Angkor Wat.

Once the guest villa of King Norodom Sihanouk, Amansara is now a 24 suite resort with two large swimming pools (as well as 12 private dipping pools) all set in beautiful private gardens. The high ceiling, circular dining room offers both Khmer and international cuisine and changes daily with fresh produce always evident.

But perhaps most memorable of all is the way in which guests are welcomed. Quite apart from the usual refreshing iced tea and appetizer, guests receive a small raffia covered loose leaf note book, which has been published specifically for one’s stay at Amansara.

A suggested itinerary contains all the pertinent information on each expedition: timing, location, description of the temple, scholar’s notes and “Toby’s top tip” . Best of all, some desires are delivered before you can even think of them. Upon our return home the first afternoon, we found the bathtub filled with hot water and frangipani blossoms floating on the surface. That occurred every afternoon! Water hot…as if they could sense when we were returning.

What is equally impressive is how Amansara’s management has interacted with and provided support to it’s local community . They work actively with the Sangkheum orphanage to help homeless street children, providing education and vocational training to over forty children aged between 4 – 17.

Additionally, on several evenings we were entertained by a troupe of disabled performers who had been invited to perform a mix of comedy, song and dance of their own creation. The resort gives them an income and the opportunity to perform for guests thereby helping to build their self-esteem.
As a result, Amansara recently won the top award in the hotel industry’s (Virtuoso) community service category.
There wasn’t one glitch in countries that aren’t on the top of ‘where to go’ destinations. Perhaps it’s because they aren’t yet over run with tourists or just have this quiet, patient personality that tends to sooth, be helpful without being intrusive and give travelers a memorable trip.